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Tea Tasting: Da Hong Pao (Big Red Robe) Oolong Tea
Tea made from the Camellia sinensis plant can be divided into six different types depending on the processing of the freshly picked leaves and the degree of fermentation. Oolong teas lie in the middle of the spectrum and are partially fermented. They are somewhere between green tea and fully fermented black tea. Oolong teas get their name from the Chinese black dragon because the long dark twisted leaf is said to resemble a dragon’s head. There are three main types of oolong tea in China. These are Iron Goddess (Tieguanyin), Phoenix (Fenshuang Dan Cong) and Big Red Robe (Dahongpao). This article focuses on the origins of Big Red Robe tea, the quest for tea quality, and the preparation and appreciation of this tea.
Authentic Dahongpao tea comes from the small UNESCO World Heritage Site of Wuyishan National Park in Fujian Province. The tea grown in this unique and wonderful environment is also known as “rock tea” because the tea bushes are planted high up in the rocky and mountainous national park. The stony soil and foggy climate give this tea its smooth taste. A lower quality imitation Dahongpao tea that is not grown in a small area of rock oolong has an earthy taste because it grows in the soil, not on the rock. In Wuyishan, four characters are used to describe rock oolongs; alive, clean, sweet and fragrant.
The mythology behind Big Red Robe tea reveals how this oolong variety was named. It is said that the traveling scholar was on his way to exams and was very tired. The monk gave the researcher some tea, which revived him and he went to pass the exams, for which he was awarded a red robe. To thank the monk, the scholar returned to give him a red cloak. However, the monk refused the gift, saying that the teapenny should be thanked rather than himself. So the researcher threw a red cloak over the tea bush, and that’s why Dahongpao (big red robe) got its name.
It is said that the original tea bushes that provided tea to revive the researcher still flourish in Wuyishan National Park. The original Dahongpao “mother” tea bushes are about 400 years old. These national treasures are guarded at night and are used only for making tribute tea; which is a gift for local and national leaders. These bushes are considered valuable because they are the last of their kind. All attempts to grow cuttings or shoots from bushes and thus grow more of the same variety have failed. The “mother bushes” are all that remain, and if they are allowed to die, there will be no more to replace them. The Tea Institute has combined the original Dahongpao “mother bush” with other varieties of tea to make new generations of Dahongpao, many varieties of which have been cultivated in Wuyishan National Park.
These subspecies of Dahongpao tea growing in the national park have given birth to many varieties of Big Red Robe tea. Among these, the most popular varieties drunk in China are Shuixian (literally translated as “water sprite”, although often this tea is also called Narcissus), Rongui and Orchid. All Dahongpao teas are fermented in the same way. Fresh leaves are first dried in the sun to destroy the natural green enzymes. The leaves are then repeatedly processed in a series of heating, drying and rolling until the final shape is achieved and the leaves are fried on wood until crispy.
Preparation of Big Red Robe tea:
When tasting the tea, start by appreciating the fine shapes and fragrance of the dry leaf. The rich aroma of the tea must be fully appreciated. To do this, you can put about a teaspoon of dried leaf in the palm of your hand and breathe hot air into the leaf and then inhale through your nose, the slightly woody and malty aroma is amazing.
It is a great opportunity to use Purple Clay Yixing or Zisha teapot to make Dahongpao tea. Typically, a small teapot (volume about 200-300 ml) is filled to a third with dry tea leaves. Nearby, boiling water is used to infuse Dahongpao tea. Pour boiling water over the tea leaves in the pot and discard this first infusion. This is called “washing the tea” and is done for all fermented teas. This not only washes away fine sediments, but also reduces the amount of caffeine in your final drink. The water you pour away can sometimes be used to heat cups of tea.
Next, pour boiling water over again and let the tea brew for about 30 seconds before pouring your tea through a strainer into a communal cup (usually a glass jug is used). We may use a glass sharing cup to ensure everyone gets the same tasting tea; tea can vary in flavor strength and the last cup may taste very strong, while the first from the teapot may taste too weak. Usually, the tea is divided into small sippy cups using a glass dividing cup. Dahongpao can be prepared 6-8 times.
To fully appreciate the tea, one must first inspect the exquisite color of the liqueur. It makes a lovely amber and golden clear liqueur. Next, you should appreciate the sweet and slightly woody aroma of the tea before you take three long slurps from your sippy cup. Finally, a wet leaf is sometimes examined. In a high-quality tea leaf, you can expect to find a large leaf, about 2-4 cm long and 1-2 cm in diameter, with a slightly glossy texture and a fairly solid texture.
Enjoy your tea!
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