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Some Fun with Antiquated Hat Terms – Part Two – Renaissance Europe Through 1799
Looking back at the history of hats and headdresses, some obscure and unusual words come to light. I recently finished reading THE PROFESSOR AND THE MADMAN (Simon Winchester, HarperCollins, 1998) on the making of the Oxford English Dictionary and thought it might be fun to explore the definitions and etymologies of these ancient terms, most of which have everything. but has disappeared from modern use. [I’ll breakup this project into three or four parts, so stay tuned.]
To be included below, the word must appear with a squiggly red line in Microsoft Word’s “Spell Checker” tool. So here goes:
[Fr. ferronnière, a frontlet; a coronet worn on the forehead: after Leonardo da Vinci’s portrait La Belle Ferronnière.]
(See the 1960 quote.)
1840 THACKERAY in Fraser’s Mag. 681/2. June The sisters..pink scarf..and brass ferronières..voted very charming. 1908 HC SMITH Jewelry xx. 172 This headdress is known as a ferronière. 1960 H. HAYWARD Antik Coll. 117/1 Ferronière, a chain worn as an ornament around the head, with a jewel in the middle.
[a. F. bonne-grace ‘th’ vppermost flap of the down-hanging taile of a French-hood (whence belike our Boon-grace)’ Cotgr.; f. bonne good, grace grace.]
1. A shade or curtain formerly worn on the front of women’s bonnets or caps to protect the face from the sun; a parasol. (See citation 1617; the later may consequently belong to 2.)
1530 PALSGR. 907 The bone grace, le moufflet. 1533 Pardoner & Fr. in Hazl. Dodsl. I. 203 His kindness, which he grinded, with his French hood, When he always went out to sunbathe. 1595 R. WILSON Pedlar’s Prophecy. Bij, fillet and bungrace. 1604 DEKKER King’s Entert. 311 This blessed shoe is designed to protect your face from the heat. 1617 MORYSON Itin. III. ARC. I. 170 The French shade of veluet, to protect them from the Sunne, which our old gentle women borrowed from the French, and called them Bonegraces, are now entirely out of us. 1636 DAVENANT Plato. Lovers Wks. (1673) 411 Had he been old enough to wear Bongrace.
figure. 1609 HEYWOOD Brit. Troy VI. civ. 137 A grove through which the lake runs and makes its bows to the grace of the Sun.
2. Wide-brimmed hat to shade the face. arch. or Obs.
1606 DUTCH Sueton. 75 Wide-brimmed hat [marg. or Bond-grace = petasatus] on his head. 1638 Songs Costume (1849) 140 Straw Hats shall be no more glory, From the bright sun to hide your faces. 1719 D’URFEY tablets (1872) IV. 107 Her Bongrace of wended Straw. 1815 SCOTT Guy M. iii, An old fashioned bonnet called bon-grace.
3. “Fenders; to clear obstacles from the side or bow of the ship”. Smyth Sailor’s Word-bk.
Obs. ex. History
[a. OF. huque, heuque a kind of cape with a hood; in med.L. huca (13th c. in Du Cange), MDu. hûke, hôike, heuke, Du. huik, MLG. hoike, LG. hoike, heuke, heike, hokke, hök, E.Fris. heike, heik’, haike, hoike. Ulterior origin obscure. See also HAIK1.]
A kind of cloak or cloak with a hood; “an outer garment or cloak worn by women and then by men; afterwards it was also applied to tight clothing worn by both sexes’ (Fairholt costume).
1415 in Nicolas Test. Vetus. I. 187, I will that I will teach all things [and] huykes not furred, distribute among the servants. 1418 EE Wills (1882) 37 Also a Hewk of grene and other melly divorced. 1423 JAS. I Kingis Q. xlix, An huke sche had vpon hir tissew quhite. c1440 [see HAIK n.1]. a1529 SKELTON E. Rummyng 56 The color of Lyncole grene. 1530 PALSGR. 231/1 Hewke woman’s garment, surquayne, froc. Same place. 233/1 Hooke. 1616 BULLOKAR, Huke, a Dutch garment covering the head, face and whole body. a1626 BACON New Atl. (1627) 24 Envoy, in a rich Huke. a1657 LOVELACE Poems (1864) 210 Like the ladies in Luyck’s land, She wears her everlasting dress. 1694 Dunton’s Ladies Dict. (N.), The German virgins..put on a straight or plain dress, such as is sometimes called a huk. 1834 JR PLANCHÉ Brit. Costume 181. 1852 CM YONGE Cameos (1877) II. xxxvi. 370 When not in armour, he wore a huque or form-fitting garment.
b. Applied to Arabic. haïk: see HAIK2.
1630 J. TAYLOR (Water P.) Wks. (N.), The richer kind [of women] The doe wears a huicke, which is made of cloth or plush, and the upper part is gathered and arranged in the form of English pots, with a tassel on top. 1660 F. BROOKE tr. Le Blanc Trav. 269 (Cairo) They [ladies] they go as if they were masked and covered with a Huke that hides their faces.
Hence huke v. trans., to cover with huke or as; to veil, to cloak.
1613 H. KING Halfpennyw. Wit (3rd ed.) Ded. (N.), then..I throw over it some light, well-intentioned, well-intentioned veil of immaculateness to disentangle and cover it from public shame.
[f. LOVE n.1 + LOCK n.1]
A peculiarly shaped cluster worn by courtiers in the time of Elizabeth and James I; later any curl or hair of a peculiar or striking character.
1592 LYLY Midas III. ii. 43 Shall the loue-locked be wreathed with a silken twist, Or shall the shaggy fall upon thy shoulder? 1628 PRYNNE (title) The Vnlovelinesse of Love~lockes. 1840 MARRYAT Poor Jack i Lovelocks, as sailors call the curls they wear on their temples. 1894 A. GRIFFITHS Prison of Secrets Ho. II. ARC. ii. 63 Bandoline, which he used in making love locks to adorn his forehead and temples.
transf. 1886 MAXWELL GRAY Silence Dean Maitland I. i. 12 All of them [cart-] he wore his horse’s mane in love locks.
[Fr. fontange, f. Fontanges the territorial title of a mistress of Louis XIV.]
A tall headdress worn in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.
1689 SHADWELL Bury F. 11, What do you lack, ladies? fine mazarine hoods, fonts, straps. 1711 ADDISON Spec. No. 98 1 These old-fashioned Fontangs raised an Ell overhead. 1883 FG STEPHENS Cat. Printed by Brit. Mus. ARC. 282 An ugly, one-eyed old woman in a fontange.
[a. F. béguin child’s cap. See BEGUINE, note.]
1. Children’s cap.
1530 PALSGR. 198/1 Byggen a chyldes heed, beguyne. 1532 MORE Confut. Tindale Wks. 577/2. 1639 MASSINGER Unnat. Combat IV. ii, Would you like me to convert my hat to double influence and size? 1755 No. 80 connoisseur (1774) III. 71 Such an influential, caps..biggens…warehouse would create an Inpatient Hospital. 1819 SCOTT Ivanhoe xxviii, My mind has sped … since the great one was first bound round my head.
[Said to be from the name of the 1st Earl Cadogan (died 1726). See Littré, and N. & Q. 7th Ser. IV. 467, 492.]
The method of knotting the hair behind the head.
c1780 B’NESS D’OBERKIRCH Mem. (1852) II. ix, the Duchess of Bourbon presented herself at the court of Montbéliard.[the fashion] from cadogans, which until now were only worn by gentlemen.
[a. F. toupet (tup ) tuft of hair, esp. over the forehead, deriv. (in form dim.) of OF. toup, top, tup, tuft of hair, foliage, etc.; ad. *LG. topp- = OHG. zopf top, tuft, summit; cf. OFris. top tuft, top, ONorse toppr top, tuft, lock of hair: see TOP n.1]
1. = CHEMICAL STONE.
1729 The Art of Politics 10 Do we think that modern words are eternal? Toupet, Tompion, Cosins and Colmar Hereafter, some plain people will call it a wig, a wristwatch, a couple of remnants, a fan. 1818 SCOTT Rob Roy vi, These fadeurs, which every gentleman with a cuchhe is obliged to tell an unfortunate girl. 1863 Cornh. Mag. VII. 395 Wigs are dangerous unless frankly confessed. Wallpaper can easily escape detection.
b. transf. = SWITCH b. Obs.
1728 FIELDING Love in Sev. Masques Epil., From you then you toupets hope for protection. 1748 RICHARDSON Clarissa Wks. 1883 VII. 495 Some brocade or lace waistcoats..sour turned up with half a cock’s face.
2. The front of a horse or other animal (def.); thick head of hair (literally negro).
1797 Sporting Mag. X. 295 The part of the mane that is located between the two ears. 1834 SOUTHEY Doctor iii. (1862) 5 Some of the inhabitants of the Congo make a secret chest in their woolen furs.
3. attrib., as toupet-coxcomb, -man, -wig; toupet tit, the crested tit.
1731 FARMER Mod. Husb. I. ix, I meet with nothing but a pack of rosy coxcombs, sticking their brains to their peregrines. 1748 RICHARDSON Clarissa (1811) VII. i. 35 No mere toupet-man; but all male. a1784 PENNANT Arct. Zoo. (1785) II. 423 Tit. Toupet..long plumage on the head, which is sometimes raised into a pointed crest like a toupet. 1884 E. YATES Rec. & Exper. II. 238 Carefully arranged wig.
That’s why nonce-wd was thrown. ( tu ptd, tu pe d) a., wears a toupee.
1903 Smart Set IX. 53/2 We go to dinner with the hot colonels.
[f. the name of the Austrian general, Andr. von Khevenhüller (1683-1744).]
the. attribute Applied to the high cock of a wide-brimmed hat worn in the mid-18th century. (see Fairholt’s Costume in Eng. (1860) 299); therefore also with a hat. b. absolve A rooster of this shape; a hat put on in this way.
1746 Brit. Mag. 309 A laced hat pinched what our beauties have learned to call Kevenhuller’s cock. 1750 COVENTRY Pompey Litt. II. arc. (1785) 58/1 Jockey Boots, Khevenhullar Cap and Coach Whip. 1753 Proc. The Commission of Common Sense (Fairholt I. 377) Have they not forgotten the Rooster of Dettingen? noble Kevenhuller despondent? 1762 London. Chron. XI. Chapter of Hats (Planchè), Hats are now worn with an average brim of six inches and three-fifths wide, between Quaker and Kevenhuller.
Now he’s hysterical.
[Fr.; fem. of dormeur sleeper, applied to articles convenient for sleeping, f. dormir to sleep.]
1. Hood or nightcap. Obs.
1734 MRS. DELANY Life & Corr. (1861) I. 479, I sent you..the patron of a dormeuse. 1753 Let. Mrs. Dewes of Life & Corr. 260 He couldn’t get his sleeping statue yet.
2. Travel car suitable for sleeping.
1808 M. WILMOT jr. August 16 (1934) III. 363 We set off in the Dormeuse with 4 horses abreast and two in front. 1825 VISC. S. DE REDCLIFFE in SL Poole Life (1888) I. 357 The two dark green carriages a Dormeuse and Britchka which you saw..at Windsor. 1841 LYTTON Nt. & Morn. (1851) 216 A dormeuse and four cars went to the door of the inn to change horses.
3. A kind of couch or sofa.
1865 OUIDA Strathmore I. vi. 94 (Stanf.) He lay back in a bedroom before the fire.
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